Trekking in Ogliastra: the most beautiful hikes (Gorropu, Selvaggio Blu and more)

Ogliastra is one of the few places in the Mediterranean where, in the same holiday, you can walk through a canyon with 500-metre walls, climb to the roof of Sardinia, and hike down to one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I was born here and I've known these trails all my life: in this guide you'll find the hikes I genuinely recommend to my guests, split between mountain views and sea views, each with the route to follow on Komoot or Google Maps.

One tip before you set off: in Ogliastra distances are short, but hiking times aren't. Always bring plenty of water, real hiking shoes (not trainers) and download the routes offline: in some inland areas the phone signal is weak.

Mountain-view hikes

Gola di Gorropu — Europe's deepest canyon

Difficulty: hard. The most demanding hike on this list, but also the most breathtaking: you walk towards a canyon with limestone walls over 500 metres high, carved over millennia by the Flumineddu river. The hike starts about an hour's drive from Villa Pelau, at the Genna Silana pass on the SS125: about an hour down on the way in, double that back up. Entrance to the canyon costs 6 euros (4 for children aged 6-17); opening times change with the season, so check them before you set off. If you want the longer, wilder version, you can start from Sedda ar Baccas, on the Urzulei plateau. All the details are in the dedicated guide. Route on Komoot

The Tacchi trails towards Ulassai

Difficulty: medium. The Tacchi are the limestone and dolomite towers that dominate inland Ogliastra, and the trails crossing them towards Ulassai are among the most scenic on the island. Route on Komoot — with a variant that passes through the village streets, among Maria Lai's open-air artworks: variant on Komoot. It's the perfect hike to combine with a visit to the Su Marmuri cave or the Stazione dell'Arte.

Su Marmuri Cave

Difficulty: easy. One of the largest caves in Europe, in Ulassai, 20 minutes from Villa Pelau. Opening times, tickets and tips are in the dedicated guide. Open in Google Maps

Lequarci waterfalls

Difficulty: easy. The highest waterfalls in Sardinia, near Ulassai. In summer they turn into a plain rock face: they're at their best in spring, autumn and winter, after a few days of rain. Before you go, feel free to ask me whether you'll find any water. Open in Google Maps

Nuraghe Serbissi and Gola di San Giorgio

Difficulty: medium. The Serbissi nuraghe, home of the ancient nuragic civilisation — the people all Sardinians descend from — is one of the best preserved on the island, with a breathtaking panorama on all four sides. Below the nuraghe there's also a small cave you can visit. The route also touches the Gola di San Giorgio, the spectacular rock fissure above Osini. Route on Komoot

Punta La Marmora — the roof of Sardinia

Difficulty: hard. The path to the top of the Gennargentu, Sardinia's highest point: on clear days the view stretches from coast to coast. It starts at the Bruncu Spina refuge. Route on Komoot

The pools of S'Ogliu Ermanu — Ussassai's secret

Hidden pools that tourist websites don't know about: natural pools with magnificent colours, far from any town, downhill of Ogliastra in the territory of Ussassai. Very well hidden — and that's exactly the point. Today it is a place to contemplate rather than swim: a walk through a silent wood that ends in front of the water, without touching it. All the more reason to treat the ecosystem with deep respect: leave no waste behind, and keep the noise down. Route on Komoot

Sea-view hikes

Cala Goloritzé from the Golgo plateau

Difficulty: medium. Ogliastra's signature hike: from the Su Porteddu car park, on the Golgo plateau above Baunei, the trail descends about 3.5 km to the beach dominated by the 143-metre spire. An hour and a half down, up to two back up. Booking is mandatory from 3 days ahead via the Heart of Sardinia app (about €7 per person: the ticket includes the trail, parking and beach). The trail opens at 7:30 and entry closes in the early afternoon: go early — the morning light on the spire is worth the early start. All the details are in the dedicated guide. Route on Komoot · Book on the official website · Heart of Sardinia app

Hikes to the coves of Baunei

Besides Goloritzé, trails to other coves on the Baunei coast start from the Golgo plateau: Cala Mariolu (from Piredda, about 6 km and 2 hours 45, for experienced hikers), Cala Biriala (from Olobitzi, 2.7 km and an hour and a half there, with wooden and iron ladders) and Cala Sisine (from Planu 'e Murta, half an hour of easy walking; the last stretch of road is tricky, you need a car that isn't low-slung and some driving experience). From Pedra Longa, on the other hand, you can walk down to Cala Fenile in three quarters of an hour. All the details, cove by cove, are in the interactive map of the Baunei coast.

Santa Maria Navarrese – Pedra Longa

Difficulty: easy. The trail hugs the coast from Santa Maria Navarrese to the foot of Pedra Longa, the towering rock stack that's a symbol of the Baunei coast. It's the first stage of the Selvaggio Blu, but the easy version: perfect for families and for anyone who wants a taste of the wild coast with no real commitment. On the way back, a swim at Santa Maria Navarrese beach rounds off the day. Route on Komoot

Perdepera from above

Difficulty: medium. A route with sea views from the hillsides near Cardedu: spectacular coastal scenery and very few people. Pair it with a swim at Perdepera beach, right at the foot of the trail. Route on Komoot

Sa Perda Stampada

Difficulty: medium. A rock arch that frames the eastern Sardinian coast like a natural window: stunning colours and a breathtaking view from above — one of the best photos you'll take home from Ogliastra, and a spot that's known almost only to locals. Two variants: demanding on Komoot · short on Komoot

The pools of Coccorocci

Magnificent natural pools carved into the rock, in the most isolated and wild part of the coast, near the pebble beach of Coccorocci. Crystal-clear water and no services: just you and the sea. Route on Komoot

An honourable mention: the Selvaggio Blu

I couldn't close without mentioning it: the Selvaggio Blu is considered Italy's hardest and most beautiful trek. From Santa Maria Navarrese to Cala Sisine (or Cala Gonone, in the full version), days of walking along old charcoal burners' and shepherds' trails, past cliffs plunging into the sea, abseils and nights spent bivouacking. It's not a hike: it's an expedition, and it should only be attempted with an expert guide and serious preparation. But if you're a real walker, it's one of the experiences of a lifetime — and you can already get a taste of the first stage (the one to Pedra Longa) on this holiday.

Which hike should you choose?

Villa Pelau sits in Pelau, downhill from the village of Jerzu: the Tacchi trails and the Gola di San Giorgio are minutes away, Gorropu and the Golgo plateau under an hour. And after a day of walking, few things beat coming back to the villa: a shower, barbecue and jacuzzi under the stars to put your legs back together.